Honouring my late son, Israel & tourism.

Peter was the first child born to Helen & Joseph; first grandchild to Thelma & Les in Melbourne, and to Chaya & Yehuda in Sydney; and first great grandchild to Sarah and Peter. He was conceived in Israel, born in Brit­ain in 1972, went to pre-school in Perth and arrived in Melbourne ready for school. He had already been able to read by the time he was aged 3.5, so the biggest issue was to find the right way to st­im­ul­ate his intellect while quietening his excitement. 

Peter helping tourists

in his Tel Aviv office 

He later went to Mount Scopus College Melbourne with his brother Aron, the school that his mother, two uncles and all 5 of his maternal cousins had gone to. He loved English literature, Hebrew, history, pol­itics and ec­on­­om­ics, but less thrilled with physics, chemistry and biol­ogy. On Shabbat he went to a youth movement, and on Sun­d­ays he played sports and music. Carlton was his AFL football pass­ion, deb­ated in detail with his beloved Blues-supporting grand­father Les.

After school he couldn’t wait to do business studies at RMIT, graduating Bachelor of Business (Property) and maintaining his interest in politics by becoming the president of a Young Liberals branch. He was a brave rebel, considering his family had been devoted Labourites for 3 generations.

In 2001 Peter made Aliya to Israel because, he said, the girls were the prettiest in the world, half his family lived there and business opportunities for a young man were wond­erful. He married a beautiful, clever wife, improved his Hebrew from "accept­able" to "fluent", and had a precious son Ben.

He opened a travel agency called Peter Tours and became a tour operator centred in Tel Aviv. The agency provided land arr­an­g­e­ments in Israel, Jordan and Egypt, so Peter travelled yearly to plan tours for specialist groups eg Jewish travellers and Ch­ris­t­ian pil­grims from Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, France, Belgium, China and South Korea. Only when Covid caused tourists to stay in their own countr­ies did the travel industry suffer terribly.

Peter and his son lead a group to the Golan Heights

 

Here was one of Naftali’s favourite Israel Short Tours:

1. Go to Jerusalem hotel and visit the city. 
2. Explore the biblical and cultural high­lights of Old and New Jerus­al­em. Sights include Mount Zion, Old City and Western Wall, Stat­ions of the Cross and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Yad Vashem Holocaust Museum. On Saturdays instead of Yad Vashem, go to Ein Karem, the birthplace of John the Baptist. Stroll in the narrow lanes of the picturesque neighbourhood, stop­ping by Mary’s spring and visit the remark­able Church of Saint John the Baptist.
3. Descend from Jerusalem to the lowest place on earth. Drive along the shores of the Dead Sea to the rock fortress of Masada. Visit Herod’s palace, 2000 years old. Discuss the zealots who defied the Roman Empire. Float in the Dead Sea; the water is rich in salts and miner­als! 
4. Leave north to Na­zar­eth, Joseph and Mary’s town. Visit Church of the An­nunciat­ion. Continue to Sea of Galilee via Canna to visit Capern­aum ruins & visit Tabgha re the Miracle of the Fishes and Loaves. Return via Yardenit baptisms. 
5. Caesarea and the Coastal Plain In Caesarea visit the Crusader Fortress, with its unique dry moat, and the Roman Theatre. Then go to the port city of Haifa to view the magnificent Bahai Gardens from atop Mount Carmel. Go north to Acre to explore the Knig­hts’ Halls and the secret escape tunnel dug by the Crusaders. Visit­ Rosh Hanikra, most northern coastal point & walk via beaut­iful grottos. 
6. Farewell group & guides. Visit Tel Aviv at your leisure

The best tour Peter organised for our family was Jordan:

1. Drive to Sheik Hussein Bridge to cross into Jordan. Explore Jerash, ancient Roman city of the Decapolis. Visit the Cit­adel and Roman Amphitheatre on an Amman city tour. 
2. Eat early, leave the hotel and travel along the Desert Highway on the road to Petra. Enjoy a spectacular full day tour in the rose-red city of Petra. Enjoy a short horse ride, and then travel on foot through the awesome SIQ valley. Visit the Treasury, and explore hundreds of buildings, tombs, temples and C1st AD 3,000-seat theatre.
3. See the complex ancient Mosaic map of the Holy Land at Madaba. Visit Mt Nebo where Moses viewed the Promised Land be­fore his passing. Explore remains of the Byzantine Church with a mo­saic floor, and from a platform in front of the church enjoy awesome views across Jordan Valley and Dead Sea. In the after­noon cross the border, to Tel Aviv. 
4. Farewell the group & guides. Visit Tel Aviv at your leisure

The Uri Geller Museum Tel Aviv was another of his much loved tours, feat­ur­ing Geller’s Peace Cadillac, 2000+ spoons, his 1963 Vespa, Sal­vador Dali sculptures, items from John Lennon, Picasso, Andy Warhol, Alb­ert Einstein and Sigmund Freud. The museum also features an incredible discovery found during the rest­oration of the 1000 year old building, a well preserved Ottoman era soap factory! A beaut­iful terrace under the gigantic arches over­looks the Mediterranean.

Leading a group around Old Jerusalem

He trained his tour operators and guides well. Toon Van Rompay wrote: Today, I lost my mentor, my boss, but most import­antly, my good friend Peter. I came to Israel for my wife. Peter gave me all the opportunities to make sure I could stay in the coun­try. He gave my job as a tour operator when I first arrived, and trained me. He let me do the tour guide course and I developed myself prof­es­sionally thanks to him. I will be forever in his debt. And he will be missed very hard. Peter, thank you for everything.

In all his travels, Peter never forgot Australia. In March 2017 in Euroa Victoria, the Israel Travel Centre hosted a luncheon to commemorate the 100th Anniversary of the Charge of Beersheba. The ev­ent was attended by notable dignitaries representing Ballarat, Sey­mour, Shepparton and Wangaratta RSL Sub-branches. Also there were MPs, senior committee members from Legacy Group, religious leaders and military historians. Attendees were privil­eg­ed to hear from Peter from the Israel Travel Centre. He recounted the miraculous and audacious Charge of Beersheba to commemorate the Charge. Then there was a dis­cussion on ways that the miraculous ANZAC legacy can be kept alive.

When my very fit son passed away at his gym class in April 2024 aged 51, it was a painful loss and a terrible shock. He was buried amongst the beautiful gum trees in Yarkon Cemetery Tel Aviv, a place where his heartbroken son can say mourner's Kaddish.

Titanic memorabilia

Noted businessman John Jacob Astor (1864-1912), who made his for­t­une in the fur trade, was 47 when the Titanic sank in April 1912. Acc­or­d­ing to survivor accounts, Astor didn’t believe the ship was in any kind of immed­iate danger. He helped his young wife Mad­eleine (1893-1940) board Lifeboat#4 and was last seen smoking and talk­ing with another passenger. Tragically 1,500+ victims drown­ed. 

John Jacob Astor

14-carat gold Waltham pocket watch

BBC

 

Astor was not only the richest passenger on the Titanic, but was one of the richest in the world, with a net worth of c$87 million. His body was recovered from the Atlantic Ocean 7 days later, with his valuable 14-carat gold Waltham pocket watch engraved with his initials. After its recovery, the watch was passed from Astor's son Vincent to the son of his father's ex­ec­utive secretary William Dob­byn. Recently this gold watch was sold at auction by Henry Ald­ridge & Son in Devizes UK for a record £1.175 mill, the highest am­ount ever paid for Titanic memorab­il­ia. 

bandmaster Wallace Hart­ley's violin & case

L.A Times

A violin was also part of Titanic memorabilia. The auct­ion house announced they’d authenticated the inst­rum­ent from an engraving: For Wallace on the occasion of our engagement from Ma­ria. And in the catalogue: As the Tit­anic sank, bandmaster Wallace Hart­ley (1878–1912) and his or­ch­es­tra stay­ed on deck and playing Near­­er My God to Thee. Played by Hart­ley in the ship’s fin­al mom­ents, he placed his violin in a leather case and famous­ly stayed aboard as the ship sank in the icy Northern waters.

Hartley's body and violin case were found by a ship that respond­ed to the disaster. The violin was also sold by Henry Aldridge & Son in the UK and fetched £360,000. The rotten instrument, totally unplay­ab­le, was sold for c3 times more than the suggested. The violin was given to Hartley's fiancé, Maria Robinson. It passed through some other hands before being rediscovered in 2006. The auctioneer said the price was $1.45 mill. But when the auction­eer's fee was added, the price paid by the buyer was $1.6 mill.

A rare menu from the Titanic’s first-class restaurant showed what the most well-to-do passengers ate for dinner on April 11, 1912; it sold for £84,0000 ($103,00) at Henry Aldridge & Son auction house. The dinner menu, which off­ered oysters, beef and mal­lard duck was sold, was decorated with a red White Star Line bur­­gee but the orig­inal gilt lettering is no longer visible. Clear­ly the menu had been subjected to the icy North Atlantic waters, having been re­c­overed in the clothes of one of those drowned. The menu was found in a ph­oto alb­um of  late Canadian amateur historian Len Stephenson.

One night's dinner menu

from the Titanic’s first-class restaurant

BBC

Memorabilia reflected 1] only the importance of the artefacts them­selves and their rarity and 2] they also show the enduring fas­cin­at­ion with the Titanic story. After its recovery, the gold watch was passed from Astor’s son Vincent to the son of his father’s ex­ec­ut­ive secretary William Dobbyn. 112 years later, people were still talking about the ship, passengers and cr­ew. So while the Titanic was effectively a large ship that hit an ice­berg with a tragic loss of life, more importantly there were still at least 2,200 items of memorabilia to tell the stories now.

I agree. All items related to the sinking of the Tit­­­anic should indeed go to the victims’ children or grandchildren. But auct­ioning them off to strangers at any high price destroys potential col­lect­ions of Titanic mem­or­ab­ilia, and doesn’t preserve them. So families who no longer want to main­tain their grand­par­ents’ treas­ures should give them to an off­icial Tit­anic Museum, with a donor’s plaque.

Sited beside the Titanic Slip­ways, the pl­ace where Titanic was des­igned, built and launched, Tit­­anic Belf­ast Museum tells the story of Tit­anic of her de­sign, cons­t­ruct­ion, launch, voyage and catastrophe. The Belfast Museum contains many other orig­inal artef­acts, along with other fascinating items of cultural and historical interest. In the US, Tit­an­ic Mu­seums are located in Branson Missouri and in Pigeon Forge TN. Owned by John Joslyn, the two U.S museums hold a great coll­ection of arte­facts in many galleries.

Titanic Belfast Museum

cabin furniture

NBC News

Medieval saints, pilgrims, souvenirs

In the Christian tradition, journeying was associated with conversion: all pil­g­rim roads potentially led to Damas­cus. All Christians were stained with sin in his life, but individuals’ motives for going on pilgrimage differed from person to person: to seek health care; ful­fil pil­grim­age vows made during crises; do penance for sins; give thanks for blessings received; as a court punishment for a crime; or for pleasure.

Apostle arm reliquary, German, c1190, silver gilt & enamel, 51cm, 

Cleveland Museum Art

The risks were great: infections, rugged climates, pirates and rape. Mus­lim pirates lurk­ed on the sea routes; other nat­ions’ war­s flared up; ocean storms and epid­emics threat­ened; pil­g­rims had to ob­tain food/shelter en route; and leaving one’s affairs at home was risky. Brigands meant pilgrims tr­a­velled in convoy; pro­tect­ion was needed along the roads and safe places for shel­t­er. Where mon­as­t­eries could not accom­m­odate the crowds, large guest halls were set up by the holy orders. Or hostels at the end of every day’s journey. There they would rec­eive beds of straw, food and alms, a chapel, minstrels and story tellers.

So every temptation that could fascinate the med­ieval mind was linked to pilgrim­age. A general in­dulgence was made by Pope Urban II in 1095 to pilgrims to Jerus­alem, and later to all pilgrims. The ceremony for bless­ing departing pil­grims was held in the local parish church; in his hab­it he lay pr­ostrate before the altar. Each pil­grim re­c­eived a staff and leather satch­el, and wore a grey tun­ic, scarf and large broad-rimmed hat. A red cross was sewn on his garment.

The natural world was seen by medievals as a chaos in which the perp­et­ual int­er­vent­ion of God was the only guiding law; the only rem­edies were prayer and the performance of pious acts. The sexually unchaste were shown as deformed, dis­torted human be­ings. Detailed de­sc­rip­tions of Hell, in­vol­ving fire, brimstone and venomous worms, were on the west fronts of Bour­g­es, Con­ques, Lourdes and Rocamadour. Ex­cep­t for the upper mobil­ity, clergy and wealthy merch­ants, the vast maj­ority could not read. So the church chose sculptural themes that were most likely to capture citizens’ att­ent­ion, elicit their em­otions and improve their morals.

The greatest relics were those associated with Christ, especially once the holy cross was ex­cav­ated in Jerusalem. Relics of the Passion were sent westwards, the crown of thorns going to St Louis of France in Ste Chapelle 1239.

In French pil­gr­images to the Virgin were the pr­inc­i­p­al means by which de­v­otion of uneduc­ated people was ex­press­ed. Virgin statues were placed on al­t­ars, carv­ed images, on shrines, column cap­itals and walls. Relics included: her empty tomb out­side Jer­us­alem; her cloak in the church of Const­an­t­in­­op­le; and her silk tunic in Chartres’ crypt.

If chur­ch­­es could not have relics from Christ or the Virgin, oth­er holy people were next best eg the head of St John the Baptist was preserv­ed at St Hilaire in Poitiers. This cult of saints led to an unpreced­ented demand for relics, given that relics were nec­essary for the consecration of chu­rch­es. There was a great demand for saints’ literature. Saints’ lives were read in the les­s­ons on their feast days; stories were repeated in sermons; and the themes were often ill­ustrated in wall art or stained glass. Teaching the lives and mir­acles of the saints greatly simplified doctrinal issues and encouraged un­educated people with the faith.

The relics were not venerated in them­selves; they were a link to holy martyrs whose lives were a model to humanity. So the more beautiful, the better. Soon precious re­l­iquar­ies were be­ing created to honour those divine persons to whom the relics had once belonged. Where possible, reliquaries were shaped as the cont­ents had app­eared in life.

Reliquary bust, Auvergne, c1160, copper-gilt, ivory & horn, 73cm, 

Mairie de Saint-Nectaire

Medieval people were vul­nera­ble to illness. Phys­ical dis­ease had to have spir­itual causes, brought on by sin; in­fect­ion was the phys­ical tran­s­fer of devils; and barren­ness was a sign of God’s displeasure. The clergy upheld the invocat­ion of the saints as the ONLY sure remedy for sick­ness. Epidemics led to mass pil­grimage to each of the Blessed Virgin’s sanctu­aries. When sick pil­grims came for the Virgin’s inter­vention, they were nur­sed in the crypt hos­pit­al. They slept IN the cath­edral: the nave was sloped for easy sluic­­ing. On saints' feast days, crowds of the sick fil­led the great basilicas. ­[The medical prof­ession did not inspire as much con­fid­ence as the inter­cession of St Thomas or St James]. Many of the great healing shrines cul­tiv­ated their own med­ical special­ities, and the cures were advertised in the saints’ books.

By the late C12th, four shrines vied with Rome & Jerus­alem in import­ance: Compos­tela, Cant­er­bury (imm­ed­ia­t­ely following the 1170 martyrdom of St Thomas Beck­et), Col­ogne and Chartres. Com­post­ela’s popularity reached its peak in the mid C12th, with c500,000 pil­g­rims a year. The best prot­ec­t­­ion for pilgrims in those decades was provided by military monkish orders.

Pilgrimage provided a wealth of memorable experiences: new friends, tourism in new lands, soar­ing gothic spires, physical pains, dazzling shrines and reliquaries, and ultimate relief at the end. Without photos, medieval pilgrim souvenir badges were the best and most evocat­ive memories available to returning pilgrims.

The badges were made to boost revenues at pilgrim sites and to limit damage to shrines that were nicked. Cheap lead alloys allowed thin casting and detailed low-relief imagery, allowing for the production of delicate, silver-bright objects, affordable for the majority of medieval pilgrims.

 St Thomas Becket badge, Canterbury

St Michael's Pilgrim brass badge

England 15th century

Between the C12th and the C16ths they were sold in their thous­ands at famous sites, as well more local sites. Smart badge makers would try and re­f­lect the relics relevant to each pilgrimage sites.

The souvenirs were bought for different reasons. 1] For religiously focused pilgrims, badges could serve an important devotional purp­ose. 2] Medieval artefacts were sparkling, colourful objects, att­ractive to wear. 3] They advertised the particular shrine that had been most important to that group of pilgrims. 4] They could protect the health of the pilgrims on the long trip home. And 5] for the rest of their lives, the souvenirs would remind the pilgrim of the best time in his entire life. Family and friends would be in awe of the one person in the village who had fulfilled his dream.

Most major pilgrim­age sites had at least one easily recognisable image that could be reprod­uced on a badge. Santiago de Compostela badges were shell-shaped; Amiens’ was John the Bap­tist's head on a plate; St Albans’ showed the saint's martyr­dom. The badge of Thomas Becket at Canterbury was his jewel-encrusted reliquary that housed a holy skull fragment.

British travellers on Grand Tour: C18th

The term Grand Tour first appeared in the Voyage or a Com­pleat Journey through Italy 1670, by Fr­enchman Rich­ard Lassels. Pub­lish­ed in Lond­on, the book became a guide for sch­olars, artists and art col­l­ect­ors who were planning a trip to Italy. Lassels added an important motive for parents who might have been worried about sending their sons (rarely daughters) away: “Tr­avelling pres­er­v­es my young nob­le­man from surfeiting of his pa­r­ents, and weans him from the dan­g­erous fondness of his moth­er. It teaches him wholesome hard­ship; to lie in beds that are none of his ac­quain­tance; to speak to men he never saw bef­ore; top travel in the morn­ing bef­ore day, and in the evening after the day”. But he also warn­ed that Italy is able to “depr­ave the best natures if one will aban­don himself to plea­sure and become a prey to dissol­ute courses and wanton­ness”. Lassels praised the value of stoic endurance whilst abroad.

The Grand Tour was fascinating to me for distinct reasons:
A] Young Grand Tour­ists brought back new, refined tastes in paint­ing, ar­ch­i­tect­ure, furniture, gard­ens and music.
B] Our students loved to read beautiful books like Grand Tour: Lure of Italy in the C18th, by Wilton & Bignamini.
C] My own gap year abroad (pre-university) was a special year of maturity and independence – Lassels was right!

By 1690 the upper classes knew that the orig­ins of true nob­il­ity lay in the pursuit of wisdom and virtue, not in war. Ed­ucat­ion was necess­ary to create a gov­ern­­ing class; educ­a­t­ion that included gramm­ar, geometry and class­ics, plus rel­igion, the arts, languages and man­ners. Once formal education was completed, the young man’s infor­m­al ed­uc­ation was polished by, and integrated with travel. And since only Italy and France had ancient glory, The Grand Tour to Italy and France replaced univ­ersity life as the final freedom al­lowed bef­ore settling down to marriage and running the family estate.

cultivated Grand Tourists painted by Pompeo Batoni, 

Rome, 1774

Only the oldest son could inherit the parents’ estate. So many not-first-born young noblemen saw their future among the growing number of permanent dip­lomats at for­eign courts. Would-be British dip­lo­m­ats were well advis­ed to be familiar with the Continent and to speak French fluently.

Now a new book has been published which I really enjoyed. News From Abroad: Letters Written by British Travellers on the Grand Tour 1728–71, was edited by James T Boulton and T.O McLoughlin and published by Liverpool UP in 2013.

The book acknowledged that Grand Tour was a rite of passage for much of Britain’s upper class during the very late C17th and throu­gh­out the C18th. In News from Abroad, the editors gathered letters from five different travellers as they left Britain en route to Rome, via Paris and the Alps. Since there was no rush to get back home to earn a living, these fortunate young people had the luxury of exploring contemporary European life as it existed in the C18th, AND of analysing history and ancient and Renaissance art.

The first decently sized book to bring diverse letter-writers togeth­er into a single site, News from Abroad is an excellent collection of prim­ary sources that bloggers, teachers and historically-minded trav­ellers rarely get to read. George Lyttelton’s letters were written 1728–30; he came from a fam­ily of aristocrats who wanted George to complete his education abroad. Joseph Spence, tutor to a young noble trav­eller, was almost Lyttel­ton’s contemporary: 1730–3.

The last 3 of the book’s stars travelled and wrote the letters 35 years later: James Boswell 1764–6, James Barry 1765–71 and Caroline Lennox 1766–7. The party only ended at the time of the Napoleonic Wars across Eur­ope; parents seemed unwilling to allow their precious sons to travel abroad.

Although some of these private letters have been published previous­ly, I presume they were originally intended only for the eyes of their families back in Britain. Perhaps that made for more honesty and less self-censorship eg when the original budget ran out, young travellers whined and wheedled extra money out of their long suffering parents.

Another thing.... I would have chosen more broadly amongst the Grand Tourists. James Barry was certainly interested in his own art but I’d have loved to read about would-be professional painters, architects and landscape designers for whom Rome represented the last word in design classicism. I wonder if Thomas Coke, 1st Earl of Leic­ester, left any letters; apparently he spent the equivalent of Australia’s national budget on art during his long tour: 1712-8.

Sir Francis Bacon had recommended in Of Travel 1625 that the things to be ob­serv­ed were the courts of pr­inces, courts of just­ice, chur­ch­es and monas­t­eries, the walls and fort­if­i­c­ations of towns, as well as gar­d­ens, houses, armour­ies, ars­en­als, treas­ur­ies of jewels, robes, cab­in­ets and rarit­ies. Did the five young travellers in this book pay any attention to Bacon’s list of Must Dos?

Of course not. Young people, a long way from home, were possibly not going to be interested in landscape garden design or royal robes. Sometimes they were interested in chasing skirt or meeting ambass­adors or climbing into Vesuvius. Often times they were overwhelmed by the discomforts and dangers they met en route – poor food, dangerous mountain passes, poorly repaired roads, casual VD and broken bones. And occasionally they really wanted to collect treasures for their future homes, once they were married – books, furniture and art objects.

The Grand Tour

by Mike Rendell, 2022

The virtues of travel were great, but they were not a tot­al blessing. Ev­en in 1735 people were already debat­ing whether it was in the in­terest of Brit­ish cul­ture to be so eagerly adopting the taste of another nat­ion. And for the parents, the downside was snobbishness in the returned young­sters. Called Macaroni by fath­ers who no longer recognised their sons, some lads were overdressed and dandified. But we could not expect the young letter writers to make long term judgements on the basis of their own experiences - that was the job for later historians. The two appendices were very useful: A The Hazards of Collecting Renaissance Art on the Grand Tour and B: Advice to Travellers on the Grand Tour. Thanks Boulton & McLoughlin!