01 April 2025

Alice Paul: bravest American suffragette

The main U.S organisation fighting for Women’s Suffrage was the National American Women’s Suffrage Association-NAWSA, founded in 1869 by Susan Anthony and Elizabeth Stanton. But over the next decades, successes were rare. Women in Wyoming got the vote in 1869, Col­or­ado in 1893, and Idaho and Utah in 1896, in time for the 1896 Pres­id­ential election. Women in oth­er states could not vote, so the NAWSA wo­men concentrated on pers­uading state legis­latures to submit suffrage am­endments to state constit­ut­ions.

Alice being arrested
Pinterest 

Alice Paul (1885-1977) was born in Mt Laur­el N.J, the first child prom­­in­ent Quak­ers, Wil­liam and Tacie Paul. William Paul led a Trust Co. in N.J, which provided for comfortable family living. Nonetheless Alice was still taught the Qua­k­er trad­­itions of working for society, gender equality, non-mat­erialism, closeness to nature, and modesty

Af­ter finishing high-school in 1901, Alice attended Swar­th­more College Pa because her Quaker grandfather was one of the Coll­ege’s found­ing fath­ers. And mum Tacie was respon­sible for int­ro­duc­ing Alice to the fight for women’s suffrage. Tacie was a devoted member of the NAWSA and often took Alice with her to the meet­ings.

After earning a Bachelor’s Degree in Biology at Swarthmore in 1905, she went to the Columbia Uni School of Social Work in New York.

Perhaps American suffragettes should have gone to New Zealand or Australia for guidance, not Britain.  NZ's suffrage campaign peaceably succeeded with women’s rights in 1893 and only later spread through Britain and its Empire etc.

Yet Alice Paul sailed to Britain, training in the Quak­ers’ Woodbrooke Sett­lement  Birmingham (1907-10).  Birmingham was where, in 1907, she became politically active and where she met Emmeline and Christo­bel Pankhurst. These were militant suffrag­ettes who endorsed direct measures like heckling, window smashing and rock throwing, to raise public aware­ness about their cause. And the Pankhursts also hel­d the pol­itical party in power respon­sib­le for dis­crim­inat­ion against women. 

Alice enrolled at Pennsylvania Uni on her return to the USA in 1910, earning a Ph.D in sociology and launched her car­eer in 1912. Work­ing within the NAWSA, Paul gathered a group of young women, many of whom had also worked in Britain with the Pank­hursts and who were willing to drop NAWSA’s conservative tactics.

Alice Paul addressing thousands of women, 1913
Washington DC

From 1910-3, NAWSA focused on passing legislation at state and local levels by org­anising St­ate referendums and tail­or­ing the fight tow­ards men. NAWSA believed that if the move­ment had more male support­ers, it would be more persuasive to male legisl­at­ors.

Leading the Congres­sional Committee of NAWSA in Wash­ington DC, Alice assembled a mass march of suf­­fra­g­ists around the most imp­ort­ant gov­ernment buildings: White House, Cap­it­ol Buil­ding, Treasury Building. This huge march took place in Mar 1913, the day before Pres Wilson’s inaugur­ation. Photo pinterest!

From 1910-4, some western states gradually yielded to suf­frag­et­te de­mands. The movement was winning the battle by slow in­st­alments: Wash­ington in 1910, California 1911, Arizona 1912, Kansas 1912, Oregon 1912, Illinois 1913, Nevada 1914 and Montana 1914. So it was evid­ent to Paul that the struggle for women’s vote needed a chan­ge in strategy to get a Federal amendment passed.

By 1913 Alice or­g­­anised eager young women who moved to each recal­cit­rant state, visiting newspapers and calling on local women to serve on vote-getting committees. Once the women had est­ab­lished thems­el­ves, the Congressional Union sent out a speak­er. From there, each woman moved to a new town, until every town in a state had been canvassed, when the woman returned to Washington and made a report to that state’s congressman.

Alice spent 3 years with the NAWSA, yet the marches on Washington were seen as too rad­ical by some. So she broke with the NAWSA and joined the Con­gressional Un­ion, seek­ing a Fed­eral con­stit­ut­ional amendment. Then she formed the National Woman’s Party/NWP in 1916, headquart­ered in Wash­ington. Un­der her leadership, the NWP became known for its radical tactics that prop­elled the Women’s Suffrage Move­ment. In Jan 1917, suff­ragists from the NWP marched down Pennsyl­vania Ave, stopping in front of the gate to Woodrow Wilson’s White House.

Des­p­ite the US’s entry into WWI in 1917, NWP refused to abandon their tactics! There were thousands of women from different states who volunt­eer­ed to stand on the White House picket lines daily, in front of Amer­ica’s policy makers and press. But public opinion in war-time US changed to that of dis­dain. The women’s attacks were seen as an unpatriotic menace to the U.S government; opponents at­tack­ed the women, taking their ban­n­ers and in­cit­ing violence. And policemen never protected the pick­et­ers.

In Oct 1917, Paul was sentenced to 6 months in Occ­oquan Workhouse Prison Va. The prison cells were small, rat infested and dark, and the air fetid. Plus gaolers started brutal phys­ical intim­id­at­ion.

The women’s hunger strikes were to ensure the treatment of suffrag­ists as pol­itic­al pris­on­ers. So to deter the hunger strikes, prison officials began to force feed Paul 3 times daily. In solitary con­fine­ment, she was deprived of sleep by noise all night and event­ually put into the psy­ch­­iatric ward. The prison hoped that she’d be diagnosed as ment­ally insane, ending the legitim­acy of the National Women’s Party. But she was considered sane by the gaol psych­iatrist!

Almost immediately after the torture news broke, the NWP prisoners at Occoquan received support from some of the public, the press and pol­iticians. The women were released from prison in late 1917.

Silent Sentinels, picketing White House, 1917,
Library of Congress.


After WWI, Pres. Wilson returned home & en­cour­­aged legislatures to pass the 19th Amendment (Women’s Vote). The League of Women Voters (formed 1920) prom­ot­ed social reform through ed­uc­ation. But Am­erican women had a problem: only MEN could vote for the 19th am­endment. 

The 19th Amendment passed in both houses of Congress with the necessary 2/3 majority; it was ratified by the states and in Aug 1920, the Amendment was added to the Constitution. In 1923, Alice Paul proposed an Equal Rights Amendment to the Constitut­ion. But that was a longer battle.

Read Fearless Radicalism: Alice Paul and Her Fight for Women’s Suffrage, by Anna Reiter.









29 March 2025

Ralph Lauren, still a luxury life!

Born Ralph Lipschitz in 1939 to Jewish immigrant parents Frank (from Belarus) and Frieda Lipschitz (from Poland), Ralph was the youngest of 4 siblings. The family wasn’t rich, living in a poor Bronx neighbourhood. So Ralph occupied himself in the cinema world to escape boredom.

Despite his humble origins, he was thinking big. In his 1957 High School yearbook, he wrote being a millionaire was his life goal! Was this the lad behind the fashion house fortune?   
Left: daughter Dylan Lauren, Ralph, Ricky, sons Andrew and David
at the Ralph Lauren in NY City.
people.com
 
Michael Gross* described how the youth used his vivid imagination to step into the fictional world of cinema greats like Cary Grant and Gary Cooper. Lipschitz changed his name to Lauren in his late teens, after reportedly enduring years of teasing from his surname. In 1962, at 23, he joined the US Army and served until 1964, when he took a clerk job at Brooks Brothers, the oldest men’s clothing American brand.

In Dec 1964, Lauren married Ricky Loew-Beer in NY, dance teacher and author. They remained members of Park Ave Synagogue Manhattan, and had 3 children. [In 2011, their son David married Lauren Bush, granddaughter of ex-Pres George H Bush and the niece of ex-Pres George W Bush].

Lauren then worked for Beau Brummell, a famous tie manufacturer. Ralph persuaded the company president to let him design his own line of ties; hence the Ralph Lauren Corporation was born in 1967. His interest in sport then led to the launch of his iconic brand Polo. Watching his first polo match had activated his entrepreneurial spirit. He went with friend Warren Helstein who described how they were exposed to fabulous things; horses, silver, leather, tall blondes in hats and high society.

Ralph Lauren opened luxury flagship in Miami
in 2023

It spurred Lauren into developing an elegant and high-class brand, which later became known as Polo Ralph Lauren. It was a massive risk launching the company, as he had only a high school diploma and some business classes, never finishing studies at the City Uni of New York.

His next big risk was designing wide, colourful ties, in an era when plain and narrow was the fashion. His radical approach paid dividends – Bloomingdale’s loved it and bought $500,000 of ties in his first year.

Polo Ralph Lauren pure silk tie
Reddit

Lauren continued expanding his company. He believed in enjoying the moment, constantly moving forward. When it came to designing clothing, he came up with designs that he would want to wear himself. He imagined clothing fit for movie stars. “The things that I made, you could not find them anywhere,” he said.

He had started out in menswear, not launching his first tailored shirts for women until 1971, with his now-famous Polo player emblem. He also opened his ship on Rodeo Drive Beverly Hills, that year! His signature cotton Polo short was launched in 1972, while his range of fragrances made their debut at Bloomingdale’s in March 1978.
                                             
His outfits for men and women were unfussy and very smart. Denim was very popular.
                          
He opened his flagship store on Madison Avenue and 72nd St in New York in 1986. In 1992, Lauren launched his iconic Polo Sport line, followed by additional lines and acquired brands eg Ralph Lauren Purple Label in 1995. His company was publicly traded on the NY Stock Exchange in June 1997.

The 98-seat restaurant RL opened in 1999 in Chicago in a newly built building adjacent to the largest Ralph Lauren store at cnr Chicago and Michigan Avenues. It was followed by the opening of two additional restaurants, Ralph's in Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris flagship shop in 2010 and The Polo Bar at Polo's flagship shop in New York in 2015. I have never been in any of these 3 restaurants.

The marketing genius is that his brand conjured romantic, nostalgic visions of rugged wranglers, and clean, Ivy League privilege, yet Lauren made billions from polo shirts and denim. But in 2016 Ralph Lauren brand seemed to be stressed. Analysts criticised discounting, claiming they cheapened its image, while a failure to attract younger buyers was also relevant. In 2017 the designer responded by launching wearable tech in a fitness technology shirt, combined with a mobile app. The Polo Tech Smartshirt athletic apparel pioneered physical tracking technology. It was embedded with sensors, tracking heart rates, breathing, stress level and calories burned. Data were streamed to an app that generated workout programmes, enabling Polo Sport to compete with sports brands eg Nike and Adidas.

Ralph Lauren's Celeb-Packed Show in the Hamptons
2024, Getty

Summary
Amassing a fortune, fashion designer Ralph Lauren went from rags to riches. The army veteran and former clerk earned his fortune through building an empire with his Polo clothing brand, launched in 1968. Thus the Bronx lad who dreamed of becoming rich is a multi-billionaire, with homes in Long Island, Jamaica and Manhattan, plus a huge Colorado range. He stepped down as CEO in Sept 2015, remaining executive chairman. In April 2024, his net worth was cUS$9 billion.

photo credit: Ralph Lauren Corporation.

In Jan 2025 President Joe Biden awarded Lauren the Presidential Medal of Freedom, making him the first fashion designer ever to receive the highest civilian honour. 

*Read Biographer Michael Gross’ Genuine Authentic: The Real Life of Ralph Lauren, 2003.



25 March 2025

Best history books published in 2024.

Except for one book below, I have not read any list of best history books, so I relied on the historians in Smithsonian Magazine and BBC History Magazine. 

Silk: A World History by Aarathi Prasad in Smithsonian, Nov 2024 
reviewed by Meilan Solly.

Prasad’s Silk provides an engaging, exhaustive overview of a single topic, in this case the titular natal fibre. Blending the University College London researcher’s background in science and humanities, Prasad’s book upends common conceptions about silk, moving beyond the well-trodden history of China and the Silk Road to explore lesser-known sources of the fibre, including molluscs and spiders. Along the way the scholar shines a light on historical figures eg Shaikh Zain ud-Din, an C18th Indian artist who painted illustrations of silk moths, and Ramón María Termeyer, Spanish priest who studied silk-producing animals especially spiders in mid-C18th South America

Prasad wrote in Silk’s preface: “Because there is not just one silk, there is not just one story of silk. Not one road, not one people who found it, nor one nation that made it. Not one country can lay claim to its source. In silk is science and history, mythologies and futures. What follow are stories from silk’s many metamorphoses: caterpillar to moth; cocoon to commodity; simple protein chains to threads with very extraordinary capability. Across history, across cultures and countries, silk reigned as the undeniable queen of fabrics, yet its origins and evolution remain a mystery. This is the story of how it left its mark on humanity.

Now my choices from BBC History Magazine, Dec 2024 

Shakespeare’s Sisters: Four Women Who Wrote the Renaissance 
by Ramie Targoff, Quercus. Reviewed by Leah Redmond Chang.

Except for scholars of C16th England, few know the names of Mary Sidney, Aemilia Lanyer, Elizabeth Cary and Anne Clifford. Targoff brought these women brilliantly to life in Shakespeare’s Sisters: Four Women Who Wrote the Renaissance, showing what it meant to be both a woman and writer in Shakespeare’s England. As Targoff said, this was also the England of a powerful queen, Elizabeth I. Was it a coincidence that these four flourished in that era? This is women’s history at its finest.

Oliver Cromwell: Commander in Chief by Ronald Hutton, Yale.  
Reviewed by Simon Sebag Montefiore. 

Hutton’s Oliver Cromwell: Commander in Chief is his follow-up to Vol 1 of a biography that radically changed and improved understanding of Cromwell as a cunning manipulator and wily political player. Cromwell was also the godly, incorruptible and outstanding general of his own mythology. This next book was just as excellent: beautifully written, deeply authoritative and very sharp, as powerful as a cavalry charge and as exciting for readers. Generalissimo Cromwell emerged as ruthless, slippery, disingenuous and self-righteous, but also steely in his efficiency and dazzling in his military brilliance & political composure.

Young Elizabeth: Princess. Prisoner. Queen by Nicola Tallis. Reviewed by Tracy Borman.

Tallis created a vivid portrayal with compelling new insights into the real woman behind the iconic Gloriana. The author’s meticulous research unearthed some unknown details from Princess Elizabeth’s early life eg her close acquaintance with the daughter of one of the men executed for adultery with her mother, Anne Boleyn. Superbly narrated, the story of the Virgin Queen’s turbulent path to the throne was surprising, revealing and utterly irresistible. This is Elizabeth I as you have never seen her before.

Young Elizabeth by Nicola Tallis, reviewed by Alice Loxton.

Tallis explored the younger years of Elizabeth I, not as the Virgin Queen or as Gloriana, but as a resilient teenager facing immense upheaval and unaware of the remarkable future to come. Through Tallis’ brilliant writing, see how Elizabeth was shaped by her mother’s execution, her four stepmothers, the predatory attentions of Sir Thomas Seymour & the Wyatt Rebellion 1554. It wasn't surprising Elizabeth became such a skilful propagandist and, seeing the potentially disastrous fallout, never married.  
 
 All His Spies: Secret World of Robert Cecil 
by Stephen Alford and reviewed by Onyeka Nubia.

This unfolded like a John le Carré spy spoof, but it wasn’t fiction. Elizabeth I, a heretic hated across Europe, was not expected to survive. It was the task of  Robert Cecil, Robert Walsingham and William Cecil to ensure that she did, using translators, play wrights, ambassadors and assassins. Alford explores the spy masters’ motives: some were driven by Machiavellian self-interest, others by pragmatic statehood, but Cecil had ice, not blood in his veins. 

Jerusalem: The Biography by Simon Sebag Montefiore, 
Weidenfeld & Nicolson and reviewed by Helen Castor and read by me. 

This reissue was the fully updated edition of Simon Sebag Montefiore’s epic Jerusalem: The Biography and could not have been more timely, reaching as it now does into our own present day. Rarely has such an elegant and enthralling read been so urgently necessary. The Guardian wrote: "Jerusalem is the holy city yet was always a den of superstition, charlatanism and bigotry, the cosmopolitan home of many sects, each of which believes the city belongs to them alone." Jew, Christian and Muslim alike feel compelled to rewrite its history to sustain their own myths. The 3,000-year conflict provides a terrible story, which he tells surpassingly well. Montefiore's book, packed with fascinating and grisly detail, is a gripping account of war, betrayal, looting, rape, massacre, feuds, sadistic torture, fanaticism, persecution, corruption, hypocrisy and spirituality.







22 March 2025

WW2 heroes deleted in Pentagon’s purge, NBC News

References to an American WW2 Medal of Honour recipient, the Enola Gay aircraft that dropped an atomic bomb on Japan and the first women to pass Marine infantry training are among the tens of thousands of photos and online posts to be deletion as the Defence Department works to purge diversity, equity and inclusion content, according to a database obtained by The Associated Press.

The database, which was confirmed by U.S officials and published by AP, includes 26,000+ images that have been marked for removal across every military branch. But the total might be much higher. One official said the purge could delete as many as 100,000 images or posts in total, when considering social media pages and other websites that are also being culled for Diversity, Equity and Inclusion/DEI content. The official said it’s not even clear if the database has been finalised.

Defence Secretary Pete Hegseth had given the military just days to remove content that highlights diversity efforts in its ranks following Pres. Trump’s executive order ending those programmes across the federal government. Most of the Pentagon purge targets women and minorities, even notable heroes in the military. And it also removes a large number of posts that mention Commemorative Months eg those for women and for Black and Hispanic people.

In 1945, Bob Lewis ferried a modified B-29 to the Utah base where a group was training for its special assignment. 

But a review of the database underscores the chaos that swirled among agencies about what to remove re Trump’s order. In some cases, photos seemed to be flagged for removal because their file included the word gay, including service members with that last name and an image of the B-29 aircraft Enola Gay, which dropped the first WW2 atomic bomb on Hiroshima Japan.

Photos of an Army Corps of Engineers dredging project in California were marked for deletion because a local engineer in the photo had the last name Gay. And some photos and videos of the Tuskegee Airmen, the nation’s first Black military pilots who served in a segregated WW2 unit, were listed :( The Air Force briefly removed new Tuskegee recruit training courses. That drew White House’s ire over malicious compliance, and the Air Force quickly reversed the removal. Many of the images listed in the database already have been removed, and it’s not clear if others might be allowed to stay, including those with great historical significance.

Asked about the database, Pentagon spokesman John Ullyot said “We are pleased by the rapid compliance across the Dept with the directive removing DEI content from all sources. Hegseth declared that DEI is dead and that efforts to put one group ahead of another through DEI programmes threatens mission execution.

Cadets at the Flying School for Negro Air Corps Cadets Jan 1942.
Richmond Free Press

The main page in a post titled Women’s History Month: All-female crew supports war fighters was removed. But note that at least one of its photos, about an all-female C-17 crew, could still be accessed. An Army Corps of Engineers photo called Engineering pioneer remembered during Black History Month was deleted. Other photos flagged in the database but still visible included images of the WW2 Women Air Service Pilots and one of U.S Air Force Col. Jeannie Leavitt, the country’s first female fighter pilot.

Also still visible was an image of Private First Class/PFC Christina Fuentes Montenegro becoming one of the first women to graduate from the Marine Corps’ Infantry Training Battalion and an image of Marine Corps WW2 Medal of Honour recipient PFC Harold Gonsalves. And it was unclear why some other images were removed.

The database of 26,000 images was created to conform with federal archival laws, so if the destroying images was queried in the future, officials could show they were complying with the law. But it may be difficult, because the responsibility was dependent on each unit. Workers might have taken screenshots of the pages marked for removal, but otherwise it would be difficult to restore images.

A Marine Corps official said every one of its images in the database either has been taken down or would be. The Marines were moving on the directive as fast as possible, but as with the rest of the military, very few contractor employees at the Pentagon could perform content removal. In the Marine Corps, one defence civilian had to do the work! He identified 10,000+ images and papers for removal online, and after further review, 3,600 of those were removed. The total excludes 1,600+ social media sites that have not yet been addressed. The Marine official said the service is going through each site and getting new administrative privileges so it can make the changes.

This Feb the Pentagon ordered all the military services to spend countless hours poring over years of website postings, photos, news articles and videos to remove any mentions that promote diversity, equity and inclusion. If they couldn’t do that immediately they were told to temporarily remove from public display all content published during the Biden administration’s four years in office.

Tank officer Jackie Robinson’s heroic career was purged from military site. Then reinstated.
NBC News

A database obtained by CNN shows that 24,000+ articles would be purged, with many gone already. This goes well beyond just the removal of images from the Pentagon’s visual database, Defence Visual Information Distribution Service, and includes articles from across 1,000+ websites hosted by the Dept. Articles about the Holocaust, September 11th, cancer awareness, sexual assault and suicide prevention are among the tens of thousands removed or flagged for removal from Pentagon websites as the Dept has scrambled to comply with the order to scrub diversity content to comply with Pres. Trump’s order.

A Defence Department’s website celebrated six Marines photographed hoisting a U.S flag on Iwo Jima in 1945, including famous Pfc Ira Hayes, a Pima Indian. This was an emblem of the contributions and sacrifices Native Americans have made to the U.S in the military etc. But along with many others about Native American, this page has now been erased amid the Trump administration’s wide-ranging crackdown on what it says are “diversity, equity and inclusion” efforts in the federal government (The Washington Post). Multiple articles about the Navajo code talkers, critical to America’s victory at Iwo Jima and the wider Pacific theatre, were also removed, along with a profile of a Tonawanda Seneca officer who drafted the Confederacy’s surrender at Appomattox toward the end of the Civil War.

Raising the Flag on Iwo Jima, Feb 23 1945
Reddit